The Culture of Wine
“I discovered the culture of wine and was inspired by that. It became something for me to hold on to, in a direction that pointed away from me.” - Jacques de Klerk.
Jacques de Klerk is the director of winemaking and viticulture at Radford Dale, an Afrikaner amongst an assortment of international counterparts. From English-born Francophile Alex Dale to French-born Frenchman Edouard Labeye and Englishman Tom Prior. It’s as if their OTHERNESS only strengthened the South African identity of the brand. Like the way, we come to know ourselves through travel. I remember a particularly lonely winter in America when humming Buffalo Soldier under my breath was the only thing that gave me comfort {granted, I was a particularly dramatic teenager}. Thus fitting for the South African to be the one making the wine, though Jacques says their international influence has been invaluable in discovering his/their identity and continues to be the driving force in this particular brand. You see Radford Dale, like its people, is quite a few things.
The Sum of All its Parts
Apart from being a well-curated import company of intriguing under-the-radar and not-so-under-the-radar wines from France (Burgundy, in particular, being Alex’s speciality), New Zealand, Australia, and America (we continue to be inspired by their ever-evolving portfolio). Radford Dale is also a South African producer of wines from 37 different vineyards, from Stellenbosch, Elgin, Stanford, the Swartland, Voor-Paardeberg, and Paarl. And since conducting this interview, proud owners of Elgin Ridge, now called Radford Dale Organic, a 20 ha, organically certified farm, as the name suggests, in Elgin. Their journey, taking on an intriguing trajectory, which I feel almost foreshadows the future of the wine industry here in South Africa.
The Trajectory
As one of the first virtual wineries in the country, having adopted the Burgundian model of sourcing grapes from standout vineyards and producing show-stopping wines in rented cellar space, Radford Dale’s ethos is one of evolution, always. The allure of the freedom South Africa offered in terms of style and scope is on display in their range of wines. The industry soon followed, with a plethora of young winemakers adopting the model, their contributions invaluable given the international recognition the wines received. However, as Jacques says, the industry right now is top-heavy. There are more people making wine than farming - which eventually will become unsustainable, both in terms of grape supply and financially. A sentiment that has been echoed recently by several well-heeled industry commentators. Those top parcels of land are becoming scarcer and scarcer, with winemakers vying for grapes - the competition, fierce. It would therefore seem like a natural evolution for Radford Dale. The purchase of land, the one thing they had avoided for over 25 years. Also, a solidification of their identity as a brand. Given that their experimentation in various regions and vineyards throughout the Cape has resulted in the discovery that Elgin might very well be their spiritual home, and second, organic farming is the foundation on which they intend to build.
Organically Certified
“We can bring it back to farming. Let’s call it what it is. Good farming is good farming.” I find the truly GREAT truths in life are usually the simplest, though not necessarily the easiest. And in wine, it all begins with the soil - healthy soil grows healthy grapes, and healthy grapes require minimum intervention in the cellar. Drawing the natural link between organic farming practices and minimal intervention wine. Jacques speaks passionately about viticulture and maintaining balance in the ecosystem, something the previous owners of Elgin Ridge have been doing long before Radford Dale came knocking. Elgin Ridge was one of only two certified biodynamic and organic wine producers in South Africa in 2018. And previous owner, Marion Smith, founded the Biodynamic and Organic Wines of South Africa association when I visited them back then. For THAT story, you should read more here {https://www.port2port.wine/stories/a-room-with-a-view}. With the ever-increasing need for sustainable practices and awareness of the fast intensifying effects of climate change, organic wine is quickly becoming a valued product. As the market becomes more educated on its virtues and social responsibility attains a level of ‘wokeness’ previously reserved for vegetarians. Becoming organically certified has never been more on-trend or NECESSARY. As such Radford Dale has been producing certified organic wines for two years now and with Elgin Ridge/Radford Dale Organic onboard, is set to become, arguably, one of the most significant organic wine producers in South Africa.
Refreshing
The wine? Radford Dale’s style of wine is a pioneer in a culture of pioneers. A distinct blend of South African and international influences focus on heritage grapes such as Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, and Cinsault, combined with decidedly French expressions of Gamay, Grenache, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. With a specific emphasis on light red wines and a conscious move away from the opulent reds, we’re known for. Jacques says he considers wine a REFRESHMENT, a beverage to be enjoyed without requiring a glass of water to rejuvenate the palate - thus their decidedly Beaujolais-style reds. Perfectly suited to our climate and this coming summer. In essence, Radford Dale offers incredibly thoughtful, considered wines done effortlessly. Made by people who’re REALLY into meaning something to the industry and the country - even if it’s not their own. Which, if you think about it, given their experience and knowledge of the great wine regions of the world, be it Burgundy, Napa, or the Barossa Valley. They CHOSE South Africa, and more, they decided to invest and farm, in a time when NO-ONE is willing or even able to do so, HERE. This demonstration of belief in the quality of our wine, and the vibrance of the industry, says it all.
The Advocate
Jacques talks about the culture of wine, which he says means living close to the land, spending TIME, learning the nuance and rhythm of every nook and cranny. It’s something we understand now, after what feels like a year of lockdown. It’s slower, life, I mean, but it’s more meaningful. I get an incredible kick out of inhabiting my space now, to be HERE. As I think Jacques and the team do farming Elgin Ridge organically. Jacques was going to be a lawyer at Stellenbosch, or as he says: “Let me qualify that, I was never a lawyer. It was a failed attempt at learning the dark art of law and commerce. I didn’t come to Stellenbosch to study law. I studied law to come to Stellenbosch.” Jacques’s failure at law was a gain for the wine industry. He would have been very good at law, given the scientific depth and precision with which he explains his ways, in Afrikaans AND English. And in effect, while not a LAWYER as such, he HAS become an advocate. “I love this place for all its faults and challenges there are as many opportunities. Rosa Kruger said, a while ago, she believes that the best South African vineyards haven’t been planted yet. That’s exciting. I want to bring out the excitement we feel in the international arena. Make them feel what we feel.” And so, I strongly suggest you try the wine.
