Throwback. August 2017. A bright, chilly spring day in Stellenbosch. A group of young South African winemakers gathered under the collective banner of “Young Guns,” standing ready to present their wines to me and a fellow MW from the UK. An even mix of understated confidence, trepidation, and nerves hovering in the air. A new generation of budding winemaker talent looking to fulfill their destiny. I sensed their apprehension at receiving feedback on their first attempts. Eager to listen and pick our brains, though hoping for praise. As an inexperienced “young gun,” unsure how to take on criticism, no matter how constructive or diplomatically delivered. Though crucial to understand the importance of learning from those with more experience. We both left the tasting feeling incredibly energized, especially on behalf of the South African wine industry, so much talent and untapped future potential contained within this new generation of winemakers.

Fast forward five years. Most of the “young guns” from this session have created well-functioning, successful brands, offering wines of individuality and character at very good quality-value ratios. Brands like: Saurwein, Lourens Family Wines, Carinus, The Garajeest. And the brains behind Thistle & Weed, Stephanie Wiid and Etienne Terblanche, such a clever partnership.

Not many newly graduated winemakers have the money to build a cellar or the “luxury” of taking over the winemaking reins at family estates. Many depend on buying grapes from reputable growers and rent cellar space at a crush-pads. Praying the grower stays loyal to you for the next harvest. As money too often talks. With the right network and a solid strategy, you can slowly build a wine brand long-term.

The Thistle & Weed partnership consists of Etienne, with connections to some of the best growers in the Cape through his work as a consulting viticulturist, which later led him to join the Vinpro team. And Stephanie, who gained substantial winemaking experience at Fairview, is related to the Jouberts of Spier, and is now a young, entrepreneurial winemaking mother of two. Both are very strong-minded, though unnecessarily low-key given their experience and abilities. Thistle & Weed was born in 2015, with 5 tons of grapes crushed the following vintage and up tenfold in just six years. They were convincing back then, they are utterly impressive now.

All their wines have eye-catching labels reflecting the various weeds that have, for various reasons, manifested themselves in the specific vineyards and highlight the strong viticultural heart of the brand. With unique Chenin Blanc vineyards as the driving force, allowing them to focus on pockets of greatness, expressing a true sense of place.

The two wines that especially caught MY attention, though all of them are noteworthy to be honest, include the following. An old vine Chenin Blanc class act under the name of Brandnetel, the stinging nettle. And in stark contrast to the single-vineyard expressions, a super-exciting white blend named Khakibos. This wine convincingly proves that the sum can be greater than its parts, no matter how far it might be from the traditional logic of what makes a successful varietal marriage.

This is what I love about breaking preconceptions of WHAT and WHO are meant for each other. Why can't Chenin Blanc from Paarl have a love affair with Piekenierkloof Palomino and Stellenbosch Verdelho? And why shouldn´t we welcome a splash of Fernão Pires from Wellington to bring them all together on this pilgrimage? A great creative spirit is exemplified in this wine, showing the unlimited potential of what can be done with freedom and diversity of choice when the goal is to create individuality, unhindered by outdated rules of tradition and irrelevant stiff regulations. South Africa has such an advantage, and it should be celebrated.

Khakibos 2021

The creativity of masterful blending at its best. With distinct crystalline purity of fruit driving the wine along a focused line towards great persistence. Ripe citrus with a blossomy floral fragrance and a fine textural, leesy richness moderating the nerve and tension of this classy wine. Solid proof of how to electrify a blend by combining an unusual mix of varieties in such total symbiosis, reaching a level of completeness without a natural leader to drive a style. Just such a brilliant wine!

2021 Brandnetel

Apart from being forty plus and originating from a cool False Bay facing slope high up on the Simonsberg Mountain, this Chenin Blanc vineyard has an interesting story as a 1980s rootstock trial for the research institute of Nietvoorbij. Think 38 different types of rootstocks bringing a myriad of berry size, skin thickness, and ripeness levels, all contributing something unique to an already characterful expression of a single vineyard. Offering an unmatched diversity of Chenin characters into the complex equation.

This is a tight and focused Chenin, seemingly demanding more time in the glass to express all its beauty, but when it does, it knocks anyone who fancies the more “classic European linearity” off their feet. Pure and electrifying with fragrant hay and white flower prettiness. Impressive in its firmly framed yet fluid concentration, it shows itself stonier and more mineral-driven than the highly contrasting yet equally beautiful expression of their Duwweltjie from Paarl with its densely fruited and waxy textured richness.