HOPEFUL is an emotion often required in Africa. The Cape of Good Hope, also the Cape of Storms, one named for the safe and fruitful harbour it offered men too long at sea, the other for its forbiddingly stormy waters and the ghosts of men never destined to make it to shore. The Cape then is a place of contradictions, though no one will contest its magic. The eye-catching label on the WINE, a shilling postage stamp, bearing the date 1652. Though the Cape of Good Hope range of wines by Anthonij Rupert Wyne was only launched in 2011 – it was founded on the heritage of 1652. 

The Old Vine Project

I take my hat off to Johann Rupert for being instrumental in supporting the Old Vine Project. And for having two such brilliant skippers as André Morgenthal and Rosa Kruger onboard to steer the ship. Though it seems sailing was a bit rough at the outset, they have now reached something akin to a Paternoster lagoon-type cruise in this next phase of their journey. Sailing toward a destination of admirable, lauded international success. Success of the kind that has benefitted the South African wine industry as a whole, and gained the respect of the international market for our decidedly OLD heritage.

Superhuman Perseverance

Finding a way to preserve the old vine heritage of the Cape and gaining the support of the global wine community takes a lot of passion and perseverance. And, in between, convincing growers, winemakers, estate owners, and board members of traditionally led co-operatives to support the project requires superhuman amounts of time, determination, and the negotiating skills of a sharp politician (of which there are so few left in South Africa). And money. Without the support of the Ruperts, this would have remained a dream. 

The Range

The Cape of Good Hope portfolio includes a plethora of individuality, expressing highly diverse vineyard sites spread all across the Cape. A mix of more recently established vineyards in prime terroir and some Old Vine certified vineyards. The sites range from the secluded and breathtaking Elandskloof near the South Coast. To the Skurfberg, high up in the Citrusdal Mountains in the North. And Riebeeksrivier in the heart of the Swartland, somewhere in the middle. 

The Struggle of Diversity

It is an ongoing struggle to express the unique individuality of each of these distinctly diverse sites. Not an easy task for ANY winemaker to try and decode the complexity of each every year. Made even more so, considering the reality of vintage variation across such a vast area. The moody weather gods do like to keep you on your toes, always in cahoots with the innumerable mountains heterogeneously spread across the Cape. 

Add to this the myriad other variables. New and yet untested grape varieties to be experimented with versus Cape heritage grapes, how they respond to soil variation, aspect, altitude, climate, et al. And not to be underestimated, how well the viticulturist has understood the message you intend the wine to communicate. 

Someone to Crack the Code

As a winemaker of a project like this, you need to get a real kick out of the challenge. Mark van Buuren is such a man, more determined than ever to crack the code to each one of these iconic white wine sites. Sensitively searching for signs of what they need. Nailing them down, one by one. 

It’s like trying to be the best sports coach. Someone who can coax out the absolute best in each player no matter how diverse the team. While they all have their own basic needs and different levels of ego-centric demands, those mood-enhancing hormones and bad hair days all add to the complexity of attempting to lead.

Rome wasn’t built in a day. But watch this space. 

The pair – Two mountain wines 

Real beauty comes in various shapes and sizes. In its most truthful state, it comes without bells and whistles. Or a mask covering that infectious smile. 

I have singled out two wines from the range in which I can sense the process of decoding is well underway and the wines are starting to reveal the beauty of individuality and integrity. 

Two wines influenced by their mountainous surroundings from opposite sides of the Winelands, 300 km apart. The crow would take a real shortcut undisturbed by both peaks and slow trucks crossing narrow winding roads.  

Elandskloof & Citrusdal. Or Kaaimansgaat & Skurfberg. 

Back in the early 1990s, Kaaimansgaat Chardonnay was first made famous in the hands of Peter Finlayson. Much later, Duncan Savage showed the world how Sauvignon Blanc from these vineyards can make the most intriguing classic blend with its Bordelaise partner in crime, Semillon, and a touch of Chenin. The vibrant energy of the fruit from this place is spectacular, whether it is Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. Pinot Noir also shows signs of loving the place, especially evident under the respectful guidance of both Peter-Allan Finlayson and Jessica Saurwein. Still, a place so unknown to most, when it ends up with a W.O Elandskloof on the label only a handful of top professionals globally would be able to point it out on a map. This communicates even more excitement, as it proves that there is still so much untapped top-notch quality potential across the Cape it just needs to be properly communicated. 

Altima Sauvignon Blanc 2021 

A wine of contrasts. So intense yet with a subtle delicacy. Green, but not green. Fresh green herbs, lime zest, lemongrass, and verbena with a fragrant lift of elderflower and blackcurrant leaves, but nothing even hinting at tartness or unripeness, which can often mislead you on the herbal spectrum. Perfectly ripe fruit, a hint of granadilla, having benefitted from a long, slow build-up of strong aromatic intensity by being secluded at 700 m on the cool south-facing slopes of this steep walled-in mountainous spot, surrounded by the most crunchy and flavoursome apples you’re likely to come across. That´s a sign, right there. Apples and acidity. A long slow growing season with warm sunny days and cold nights, it just can´t get much better than that. 

So, how can they tap in even further on the extreme potential of the vineyard? When the wine shows the true character of its place in such a lovely way? What other winemakers only dream about comes naturally here. A generous amount of crystalline, zingy acidity. Forcing them to wait to pick the fruit and naturally tame the acidity as all the flavours are already there. As a fair exchange for the wait, the vine trades some of the most razor-sharp acidity for some additional sugar ripeness which naturally results in slightly more density and palate weight. And a half percent higher alcohol without being noticed in the mix. Adding to the intriguing contrasts of a distinctly charismatic yet delicate fruit expression with generosity and great persistence. Refreshingly cool and tight, it lingers on and remains on your mind. 

Van Lill Chenin Blanc 2020

Another unique vineyard site that is on its way to becoming decoded by Mark and his team is this low-yielding old vine certified Chenin Blanc vineyard. It has already reached cult status through the immaculate guidance of Eben Sadie & Paul Jordaan under the Skurfberg label, as well as Chris Alheit and his Magnetic North. Yes, it´s tough to play in the Champions League, sharing the same vineyard with these wine-magicians. However, the motivation for closing in on the gap behind two of the most awarded white wines in the Cape is definitely keeping the momentum up. 

It takes a lot of confidence to fully allow a site of this pedigree to express its delicate, understated power. 800 liters doesn´t give you much room to play with a diversity of containers, and it might be tempting to elevate its inherent subtlety with a little help from a new oak barrel which opens up the wine a bit earlier. Helping to reduce the number of sleepless nights as the wine stays humbly muted. I tasted the 2021 vintage still in tank to be released later this year, showing incredible nerve while maintaining the truthful unassuming character of the vineyard.

Pear, hay, chamomile, and fennel seeds mixed with a delicate note of freshly squeezed lemon juice adding a zesty nerve to its restrained, yet confident personality. Far from shouty, yet with such focused intensity on the palate. Creamy texture with subtle notes of oak, finishing off with a saline tang. A wine that has so much to tell you, if you can reward it with time in the glass.

In contrast to the Elandskloof vineyard, which has a much longer “picking window” due to its location, this vineyard much further North, into the Citrusdal Mountains is warmer. It has a shorter “picking window”, requiring harvest before it risks losing some of its nerve and intrinsic fruit quality. This, despite its 520 m of altitude and location only 50 km away from the cold Atlantic Ocean. The proximity of which brings cool, misty mornings and cold evenings, helping to tame the effects of the high daytime temperatures amid prime fynbos and Rooibos tea country. 

As a matter of comparison for vintage 2022, the last picking of Altima was done on 17 March, on the same day I visited the cellar. Basie Van Lill’s Chenin Blanc grapes were picked on 11 February, more than a month before Altima. Indicating that there was more of a need to preserve acidity at lower sugar ripeness than the other way around. Patience, then, in Altima a virtue. It bears repeating. Watch this space.